HOW TO READ + FOLLOW GRAPH ♡

keep all ends and color changes away from you when working the right side rows and towards you when working the wrong side rows (even numbered rows will be considered the wrong side if you are right handed, and odd numbered rows will be considered the wrong side if you are left handed)
read the graph from right to left on odd rows, and left to right on even rows

graphs MUST begin on an odd row to keep the image clear and without major gaps – they may look a little uneven on screen but that is to account for the uneven stitches in crochet (they sit between the previous row of stitches every other row, shifting forward in the direction you are working)
see below: smooth vs with gaps

graphs are started at the widest point of the image, look at the numbers on the graph to ensure that you are including any additional blank spaces on the first row as part of the starting point (example: pattern says graph begins on stitch 10 but there are 3 additional blank spaces before the first color change, so your first color change is on stitch 13)
1 grid square = 1 HDC! you could incorporate any graphic from my patterns, graphs from google, or something created on stitchfiddle website as long as it fits in the dimensions of stitches by rows you’ll have

HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS ♡

if you want to work a graph backwards (to have two animals facing each other for example) you must start the graph on an even row (the mirrored image will show up on the right side and the original orientation will show up on the wrong side)
if you want to work the graph upside down you must start the graph on an even row IF it was an even number of rows tall. if it is an odd number of rows tall then you can keep it started on an odd row
if you are working on one of my designs with a single center graphic and you want to crop or lengthen it, try to distribute that difference evenly above and below the graph but KEEP IT STARTED ON AN ODD ROW! example: sweater with 50 rows says graph starts on row 15, if you crop 10 rows then you will take about 4 rows off the bottom and 6 rows off the top so the graph will start on row 11, if you add 10 rows you can add 6 to the bottom and 4 to the top so the graph would start on row 21 (the example of 6 & 4 is interchangeable, the only thing that matters is keeping it on an odd row so an exact split of 5 & 5 would cause the graph to start on an even row and that won’t work) you could also just recalculate for the center (see below)

this is how to center a graphic: take the number of stitches on your piece minus the widest number of stitches on the graphic to get the total number of blank stitches, divided by 2 to be split on either side of the graph; say you got 18 blank stitches divided by 2 = 9 so graphic begins on stitch 10, if you get a half number like 9.5 then you would do 9 on one side and 10 on the other. the same formula will be used to calculate which row to start on but it needs to start on an odd row so whether you get a whole number or a decimal just round to the nearest odd number

HOW TO DO THE COLOR CHANGES ♡

when changing colors, it should be done on the last stitch of the current color, for HDC: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over with the new color then pull through.

I personally use tapestry crochet for wearables and crochet over all non-working colors to avoid floats, keeping it snug but not taught so they don't bunch up under the stitches. I carry the background color through the graphic and drop the other color(s) when they are done for that row. for large spaces between colors I will cut shorter lengths and work from those
if you have several colors to carry you could also float one color at a time for a short distance of 3-4 stitches and alternate between them if you find it to bee too bulky to work over them all at once

see below: I cut out several lengths of white for the ghosts so that it wouldn't show up in the black spaces between, but I just crocheted over the black background color in each ghost graphic

little tip I use for small sections of hdc colorwork, 50 sts or so: count the squares in the graph of a certain color and wrap the yarn around 3 fingers that many times (best to test this out for yourself first) or you can just make a swatch to determine the length needed

be sure to untangle your yarn every couple of rows so you don't end up with knots! try turning your work back and forth every row instead of round and round in the same direction on each turn