colorwork instructions for my graphs ♡

VIDEO TUTORIAL ♡

*you can use any included stitchfiddle links to track your progress, make a copy & edit anything you'd like, use progress tracker tool, and view color block counts for the graphs*

HOW TO READ + FOLLOW GRAPHS ♡

  • 1 grid square = 1 HDC! you could incorporate any graphic from my patterns, graphs from google, or something created on stitchfiddle website as long as it fits in the dimensions of stitches by rows you’ll have – be careful of any blank spaces there may be between the starting point of the graph and the first actual color change

  • graphs are started at the widest point of the image, look at the numbers on the graph to ensure that you are including any additional blank spaces on the first row as part of the starting point (example: pattern says graph begins on stitch 10 but there are 3 additional blank spaces before the first color change, so your first color change is on stitch 13)

  • graphs MUST begin on an odd row to keep the image clear and without major gaps – they may look a little uneven on screen but that is to account for the uneven stitches in crochet (they sit between the previous row of stitches every other row, shifting forward in the direction you are working) — see snowflake below: smooth vs with gaps

  • RIGHT HANDED — read the graph from right to left on odd rows, and left to right on even rows — start with the tail end, keep all ends and color changes away from you when working the odd rows (front of your work) and towards you when working the even rows (back of your work) 

  • LEFT HANDED — read the graph from right to left on odd rows, and left to right on even rows — start with the tail end, keep all ends and color changes towards you when working the odd rows (back of your work) andaway from you when working the even rows (front of your work)

HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS ♡

  • if you want to work a graph backwards (to have two animals facing each other for example) you must start the graph on an even row (the mirrored image will show up on the right side and the original orientation will show up on the wrong side) so you will be working odd rows of the graph on even rows of the garment (back of garment for right handers/front of garment for left handers)

  • if you want to work the graph upside down you must start the graph on an even row IF it was an even number of rows tall. if it is an odd number of rows tall then you can keep it started on an odd row

  • if you want to crop or lengthen your sweater, be mindful of the number of rows you're working with and try to distribute that difference evenly above and below the graph(s) but KEEP THEM STARTED AN ODD ROW — example: you may take a few rows away from the top and bottom of your panel that don't interfere with your graphics 

  • this is how to center a graphic: take the number of stitches on your piece minus the widest number of stitches on the graphic to get the total number of blank stitches, divided by 2 to be split on either side of the graph; say you got 18 blank stitches divided by 2 = 9 so graphic begins on stitch 10, if you get a half number like 9.5 then you would do 9 on one side and 10 on the other. the same formula will be used to calculate which row to start on but it needs to start on an odd row so whether you get a whole number or a decimal just round to the nearest odd number

  • for any major changes, I might suggest making a copy of your graph in stitchfiddle.com and then expanding the canvas to the number or rows by stitches your panel will have; you can then use the select/copy/paste tools to arrange the graphs however you need

HOW TO DO THE COLOR CHANGES ♡

  • when changing colors, it should be done on the last stitch of the current color, for HDC: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over with the new color then pull through.

  • I personally use tapestry crochet for wearables and crochet over all non-working colors to avoid floats, keeping it snug but not taught so they don't bunch up under the stitches. I carry the background color through the graphic and drop the other color(s) when they are done for that row. for large spaces between colors I will cut shorter lengths and make bobbins to work from 

  • if you have several colors to carry you could also float one color at a time for a short distance of 3-4 stitches and alternate between them if you find it to bee too bulky to work over them all at once

  • see below: I cut out several lengths of white for the ghosts so that it wouldn't show up in the black spaces between, but I just crocheted over the black background color in each ghost graphic 

  • little tip I use for small sections of hdc colorwork, 50 sts or so: count the squares in the graph of a certain color and wrap the yarn around 3 fingers that many times (best to test this out for yourself first) or you can just make a swatch to determine the length needed

  • be sure to untangle your yarn every couple of rows so you don't end up with knots! try turning your work back and forth every row instead of round and round in the same direction on each turn